Let’s tackle the screen first. Way back in October, a rumor emerged that both LG and Samsung were working on 2048×1536 LCD panels, and that full-scale production would begin in November. This might seem crazy, with laptops and desktops sporting 1920×1080 resolutions, but that’s beyond the point. If LG and Samsung can reliably produce 2048×1536 panels, then that’s that. It might help if you remember that 1920×1080 panels have been rolling off the production lines for years now. For all we know, 2048×1536 is a walk in the park for Samsung.

As far as cost is concerned, as long as Samsung’s yields are high enough, a 2048×1536 panel doesn’t cost any more than the 1024×768 panel found in the iPad 2. The new processor, radios, and reduced power consumption (to keep the battery life the same) all come down to a new 28nm process. By dropping down from 40nm to 28nm, Apple instantly reduces power consumption by around 30%. The additional GPU cores will add to the A5X’s footprint, but then it’s fairly safe to assume that the two Cortex-A9 cores (if they are still A9s!) might have been tweaked to reduce their power usage. The 4G radio is probably a second-generation 28nm part provided by Qualcomm. It will suck down power, but significantly less than the first-generation 40nm parts. 28nm parts are cheaper to produce, too, because you can squeeze more of them onto the same silicon wafer. When it’s all said and done, though, it’s important to bear in mind that despite the move to 28nm, the iPad 3 doesn’t have a longer battery life than the iPad 2; it’s the same. As we mentioned before, the iPad 3 is slightly heavier (660g vs. 600g) and fatter than its predecessor — both of which will accommodate a larger battery. 60 grams is actually quite a lot; the Galaxy S II only weighs 116g. Where the iPad 2 has a 6,930mAh battery, the iPad 3 battery might be almost double that, towards the 10,000 mAh region. In other words, the new display and array of cellular radios require a lot of juice.

In conclusion, then, the new iPad is nothing short of sensational, but not some kind of technological miracle. As always, this is yet another case of Apple’s supply chain utterly destroying the competition. Apple has just cemented its dominance for at least another six months. We can probably expect a Samsung tablet with the same kind of screen, but probably not for a few months and probably powered by a version of Android that doesn’t support that kind of resolution. I wonder if Microsoft has some Windows 8 tablets lined up with that kind of resolution…

SOURCE: EXTREME TECH

Storage needs continue to surge and storage prices continue to drop. The result of these two opposing trends is that there’s an astonishing number of affordable network attached storage devices (NAS) on the market. NASes are gaining popularity because users not only want a centralized way to store multimedia and other data, but they also want easy ways to share, stream and remotely access that content.

There are consumer NASes, which include USB and single, fixed HDD devices. Then there are true SMB NASes, with advanced features that some small and mid-sized businesses often need like quick volume recovery in event of drive failure, advanced RAID configuration options and integration with business network directory services like Active Directory. Of course NASes vary in price by feature set and storage capacity. But don’t be misled into thinking getting a high quality NAS means you have to pay for the priciest one around. You may just end up with “too much NAS” and pay for a device with features you may never use. If you run a business, especially one that generates a lot of data, you don’t want to skimp either and end with a limited NAS that you’ll have to replace in two or three years—you want one with expandable capacity.

What is a NAS? First, let’s define what a NAS is. A network attached storage (NAS) device is primarily a centralized repository for data. It differs from a direct-attached storage (DAS) device in that instead of attaching directly to a computer, it attaches to a network. A NAS is used largely for filesharing, and these days, for streaming multimedia. Yet many NASes are also essentially servers, because they almost always have a lightweight, embedded Operating System (usually Linux), and they’re networkable—usually via an Ethernet port, although some are now featuring wireless connectivity—so they can store data for all the computers on your network. The storage space can be comprised of USB or hard disk drives.

The NAS market is competitive. There’s a vast array of NAS devices to choose from. What you choose depends on what you need. Some NAS devices only support USB storage; they’re usually much smaller than the ones that hold standard SATA hard disk drives—and a lot cheaper. Some NASes have extensive software features that allow you to do specific tasks, such as hosting a Web server on them. Others allow remote access. And, of course, there’s the amount of storage offered, and whether the box offers RAID functionality or not (more on this later). Here are some key aspects of NAS devices to consider when you’re shopping. You can use this as a checklist to find the type of NAS that’s right for your home or SMB.

The main purpose of NAS is to provide centralized, shared storage. That storage can be in the form of USB drives or hard disk drives (HDD). USB drives connect externally to a NAS’ Affordable, consumer-class drives, therefore, are often small desktop USB devices. They’re often cheaper than NAS devices that utilize SATA drives. Just because they’re cheaper doesn’t necessarily mean they have less capacity than HDD-based NAS devices. Some of the USB NASes have four USB ports, each capable of holding four GB flash drives or four 250GB USB external drives—making for one TB of storage. What USB NAS devices tend to lack are redundancy options like drive mirroring (storing multiple copies of data across two or more disks on a NAS device so that complete failure of one disk won’t result in data loss—the disk subsystem that manages this is known as RAID) and the extensive management and feature set of HDD NAS products. Some USB-based NAS devices actually have capacity limitations; just because a device may have several USB ports, does not mean it will actually support a bunch of USB drives totaling 1 TB.

It’s important to check with the manufacturer to see what the unit’s capacity limits are. Hard disk drive NASes can be sold with the drives included or without them. They often sound like a killer deal—until you figure in the cost of the HDDs. NAS devices that ship with the actual disk drives are often a good bargain, and you can be certain you have drives that work with the device. If you’re buying your own drives, do your homework—make sure you get the right kind. Not all drives work with all NAS devices. NASes targeted for small to mid-size business often have expandable capacity through several USB ports to which users can connect direct-attached storage devices or though iSCSI support.

SOURCE: PCMAG.COM

People want similar mobility on their PCs as they get on their smartphones,” wrote Billy Anders, a group program manager on Microsoft’s devices and networking team. “It is unlikely that your end goal is just to get connected to the Internet. Instead, connecting to the Internet is a step (or a hurdle) towards what you really want to do, like surf, socialize, or explore, and you would prefer that your PC is connected and ready for you to use whenever you want and wherever you are.” To that end, Microsoft “looked at the fundamentals of wireless connectivity and re-engineered Windows 8 for a mobile and wireless future, going beyond incremental improvements,” Anders said.

Some of the things the team came up with include: Mobile Broadband Inclusion: The line between mobile and desktop computing continues to blur as users are coming to rely on multi- connectivity options no matter which device they may be using. With this in mind, Windows 8 features mobile broadband connectivity, both 3G and 4g, alongside Wi-Fi. Native Broadband Driver: Windows 8 features an in-box mobile broadband driver that Microsoft developed with various mobile hardware vendors’ devices. It has been designed to just be “plug and play,” and the driver is kept current via Windows Update. Windows 8 is designed to allow users to just insert a mobile device or SIM card into a Windows 8 PC and setup should happen automatically. Airplane Mode: Phones have long had this capability and now Windows has it too. Users can opt to turn off individual radios: Wi-Fi, mobile broadband, or Bluetooth within the Windows 8 interface. Universal Wireless Connectivity: Now instead of only being able to see all of the wireless networks in proximity, Windows 8 users will be able to see all of the available mobile broadband networks (as shown in the image). Wireless Connection Prioritization: By default, Windows 8 will prioritize Wi-Fi networks over mobile broadband since Wi-Fi is usually faster, with lower latency and higher data caps.

When connected to a Wi-Fi network, Windows 8 will automatically disconnect from a mobile broadband network. In certain cases, connected mobile devices will also power down when battery life consumption can be preserved. Optimized Preferred Networks: The Preferred Networks feature has been available in Windows since XP SP2, allowing users to change the order of which networks they connect to by preference. In Windows 8, the ordered list of preferred networks is maintained based on user behavior: which networks to which a user explicitly disconnects and reconnects. If you manually disconnect from a network, Windows 8 will no longer automatically connect to that network, for example, so it’s a feature that Windows optimizes as it “learns.” Because of this learned behavior, Windows purportedly can also reconnect to a Wi-Fi network very quickly—Microsoft is touting about a second—when a machine resumes from standby. Support for Carrier-Unlocked Devices: For users with devices that support carrier switching, Windows 8 is supposed to come with in-the-box support that will allow those users to connect to any supported carrier from within the Windows interface.

Windows 8 will automatically identify which mobile operator is associated with the device and will let users do things such as purchase data plans from that carrier. Security: Windows 8 supports various Wi-Fi hotspot authentication methods such as WISPr (Wireless Internet Services Provider roaming), EAP-SIM/AKA/AKA Prime (SIM-based authentication), and EAP-TTLS (used a lot on university campus networks). Data Consumption Information: The Windows 8 Task Manager allows users to see how much data a specific app has consumed.

SOURCE: PC MAG

That is the A-number-one reason you should digitize many of your personal documents. Wouldn’t that be a handy time to have a digital document, accessible from your laptop, smartphone, or tablet?

You’ve changed doctors, insurance programs, and pharmacies several times in the last few years, and the pharmacist now needs to know you if you’ve ever taken a certain medication. Wouldn’t it be useful to log into some secure system that has records of all the prescriptions your doctors wrote because you snapped with your phone’s camera before getting them filled? Or maybe you’re motivated to digitize more of your personal documents simply to get rid of clutter. The reasons for doing it are endless, and the excuses for not getting started are, too.

Here a few tips and tricks that will leave you with no excuse for putting the task off any longer.

What to Digitize

Before you can reduce the amount of paper in your home, you have to decide which documents hold value in being made digital. In many cases, you’ll want to keep the original documents, making the digital one essentially a back-up.

This list might help you generate ideas: • taxes • tax-deductible receipts • paystubs • deeds and leases • warranties • passports (many countries have very specific rules about making copies of passports; check with your government) • family archives, such as birth certificates, adoption papers, marriage certificates, death certificates, and immigration papers • insurance forms • medical and dental records, and prescriptions.

If your employer doesn’t provide electronic paystubs, you should absolutely keep the originals for at least six months, if not a full year. Banks and landlords often require these documents, in addition to tax forms when completing financial or housing paperwork. With passports and some other official legal documents, be careful about the rules for making copies. It’s usually a good idea to shrink or enlarge the image by at least 10 percent (so it doesn’t look like you’re trying to counterfeit it). Even if you don’t think you’ll ever need to provide replicas of any of these documents, there will certainly be times when you need to reference your passport number (for an application, say) or some other piece of data from them. It’s so much more efficient to search for that information from your computer than to start digging through a closet full of papers.

SOURCE: PCMAG.COM

1. Don’t double-click everything. Windows 101: Double-clicking is how you open items in Windows. It’s not how you open links in your Web browser, click buttons in dialog boxes, or do pretty much anything else–and if you reflexively double-click, you might accidentally zip right past something important or submit a form twice. If you don’t need this reminder yourself, chances are you know someone who does.

2. Use slashes and backslashes in the appropriate situations. Let’s get it straight: / is a slash (or forward slash, if you must), and \ is a backslash. Backslashes are conventionally used for Windows file paths (C:\Program Files\Whatever), while slashes are used for Internet addresses.

3. Record the exact error message. When your PC crashes, it’ll usually try to tell you why it is doing so–albeit with a string of numbers and letters that you won’t understand. Write the message down in its entirety (or take a screenshot, if possible) so you can later plug it into Google or give it to your tech support agent. If your PC didn’t provide an error message, go to Action Center (in the Control Panel) and see if it shows up under ‘View archived messages’ or ‘View problems to report’.

4. Bring deleted files back from the dead. When you delete a file from your PC or memory card, you’re not wiping it off the actual hard drive. Instead, you’re simply removing the index information that tells your PC where the file is, at which point the PC is free to treat the part of your disk that contain that file as empty space that it can write something else to. If you’ve accidentally deleted something, undelete utilities such as Recuva can help you find those files again as long as you haven’t already written over that file with something new. Don’t leave your personal data on your old PC’s hard drive. Nuke it completely with Darik’s Boot and Nuke.

5. Wipe your hard drive before getting rid of it. Because your PC doesn’t immediately get rid of the files you delete, you can’t just reformat your hard drive before recycling or selling your old computer–because someone might be able to use an undelete app to recover your sensitive data. Want a totally worthless toolbar added to your browser? No? Then uncheck the box for that option before you install updates.

6. Uncheck the boxes before you install. Lots of helpful apps out there give you the option of installing search toolbars and other add-ons–and some of them are so pushy about being helpful that their installers are configured to install the uninvited extras unless you check a box saying you don’t want them. Not only is each add-on another thing that your PC needs to load, but you have no idea what kind of data it could be sending out. They come bundled with the app because they make money for the app developer, not because they’re particularly useful. So take a close look at what you’re installing before you click Install–and in return, the installer won’t change your search engine or install apps you don’t need.

7. Beware of viruses living in Office docs. Experienced Microsoft Office users can take advantage of its built-in Visual Basic for Applications support to automate complex tasks with macros. However, malicious coders can use those same tools to design viruses that may interfere with your work and that of your colleagues. By default, Office is set to disable all macros and notify you when a doc you’re reading contains them (to toggle this setting, in Word, select Word Options, Trust Center, Trust Center Settings, Macro Settings), so you should already be safe on this score.

8. Be skeptical of “cleaning” apps. Apps that make vague claims about improving your PC’s performance and clearing out its clutter (Registry cleaners, I’m looking at you) will generally do more harm than good (if they do anything at all). To clean up your system, simply run Disk Cleanup (to reach it, select Start Menu, All programs, Accessories, System Tools); it comes with every Windows installation and it won’t mess up your PC.

9. Uninstall your old apps. If you regularly download and install new apps from the Internet, you should get in the habit of pruning your collection every now and then. To do so, open the Programs and Features control panel, scroll through the list, and click Uninstall to ditch items you no longer want. You may need to take a trip into your C:/Program Files/ folder to hunt down a few additional unused apps. The less stuff you have on your PC, the less things are to go wrong.

10. Don’t let a spilled drink ruin your laptop. If you keep your cool when a spill occurs, you may be able to prevent your data from disappearing and your motherboard from frying. Instead of panicking, quickly but methodically unplug the power cord and yank out the battery–don’t wait for Windows to power off. Next, detach anything connected to the PC (network cables, USB devices) and pull out any readily removable components such as an optical drive. Tilt the laptop to try to drain the liquid in the direction that it spilled onto your PC, but be careful–you don’t want to tilt the laptop in a direction that would allow the liquid to seep even deeper in. If you see liquid on the surface of the laptop, dab it off with a towel. At this point, unless you’re comfortable disassembling your PC and cleaning it with electronics cleaner, you’ll probably want to take it to a tech.

11. Turn down UAC. Both Windows 7 and Windows Vista include a security function called User Account Control, which dims the screen and flashes a dialog box whenever you install an app or change your system settings. Though this arrangement can be useful for catching sneaky apps that are trying to install or change things without your knowledge, it can also be annoying. If you use Vista, grab TweakUAC to make it less annoying without turning it off. If you use Windows 7, the default settings aren’t too bad, but I recommend that you go into the User Accounts control panel, click User Account Control settings, and change the setting to the third notch down, so UAC will still warn you but it won’t dim the screen.

12. Don’t work in your admin account. Many PC users are accustomed to doing their everyday work while logged in to their PC’s administrator account–especially in Windows XP. Doing so can save you the hassle of having to log in and out when you want to install apps or make changes, but it also leaves you much more vulnerable to viruses and malware–so don’t do it. The Control Panel is far easier to navigate when you can see all the icons at a glance.

13. Keep your Control Panel in Icon View. The Control Panel’s Categories view can be useful if you’re intimidated by the many different options available, but it can also make finding what you’re looking for more difficult (especially if you’re following detailed instructions that refer to the control panels by name). Click Classic view on the left (in Vista) or choose Large Icons from the View by dropdown menu in the upper right (in Windows 7), and you’ll have ready access to all of the control panels. Limit the clutter in your system tray by paring down the list of icons that occupy it.

14. Clear your system tray. Apps often park themselves in the system tray (the row of icons on the right side of your taskbar) and stay open without your realizing it. Take the time to clear it out occasionally. Open the Notification Area Icons control panel, and check the box on the bottom that says Always show all icons and notifications on the taskbar to get a sense of how cluttered your system tray is; then right-click each one you don’t need and choose Close. Your RAM will thank you.

15. Manage your power settings. If you’re using a laptop, you’ll want to know how to change your power settings so your PC doesn’t waste battery when you need to conserve it, doesn’t slow down when you need to go fast, and doesn’t go to sleep at an inopportune moment. Open the Power Options control panel, and choose from among several presets containing different configurations for when you’re plugged in and when you’re mobile–or feel free to create your own. To access the advanced settings, click Change plan settings, Change advanced settings; there you’ll find detailed options related to your battery, Wi-Fi radio, graphics card, and more.

SOURCE: PCWORLD

Productivity with Chrome
Depending on which Web metrics firm you believe, Google Chrome either surpassed Mozilla Firefox in worldwide browser market share in late 2011 or will do so in early 2012, picking up the number two spot behind Microsoft’s IE. Either way, it’s clear that Chrome’s star is rising.

If you’re among those switching to Google’s browser, you’ll find add-ons aplenty to enrich your browsing experience. Here are 10 essential add-ons, many exclusive to Chrome, that will please everyone from procrastinators to productivity buffs.

StayFocusd
When it comes to productivity, you are often your own worst enemy. StayFocusd can help. It lets you set a daily time limit for browsing time-wasting websites of your choosing; once your allotted time is up, the sites are blocked until the following day. You may be able to slip Facebook sessions past your boss, but StayFocusd’s all-seeing eye can be disabled only by uninstalling the add-on, making this a nearly foolproof way to remain on task.

Customization hounds will find plenty to love here, too. You can configure StayFocusd to operate only during certain hours on certain days, and/or to block subdomains, individual pages and even certain types of content, such as Flash games.

Aviary
Revisionists, rejoice! The Aviary add-on lets you edit images right in your browser without being rerouted to another site or program.

When you’re browsing, just right-click an image and choose Edit Image in Aviary from the context menu. Up pops the image in a simple widget that lets you adjust colors, crop, rotate, eliminate red-eye, add silly “stickers” and more, then save it to your desktop.

There’s also a screen capture feature that takes a snapshot of the page, opening it in a slightly more advanced in-browser image editor in a new window or tab. Here you can annotate your captures and add other effects, making this one powerful tool for bloggers or anyone else with an image-editing itch.

Session Manager
Never worry about finding websites from a previous browsing session again. Session Manager saves entire browser sessions in their current state, allowing you to revisit a series of websites accessed on a previous date, exactly as they were when you first clicked on them.

Session Manager is also ideal for synchronizing your daily Web browsing by helping you create sessions for certain times of day. Fond of social networking and email in the mornings? Session Manager makes it easy to load your routine while nursing that first cup of joe.

Chrome to iPhone or Google Chrome to Phone
Running out the door is a lot less stressful when you pair your Android smartphone with Google’s Chrome to Phone or your iPhone with myPhoneDesktop’s Chrome to iPhone (shown at left). Both send links, images, phone numbers and other important information right to your smartphone when you click on an in-browser button. With push notifications, the ability to set default actions for different data types and multiple handset support, they help streamline your digital life.

Both extensions are free; you’ll need to install the corresponding app on your phone and have an account with Google or myPhoneDesktop.

Taskforce
Taskforce turns your Gmail inbox into a productivity nerve center for your digital life. The add-on converts emails into tasks, schedules those tasks and shares them with others, even if they don’t use Taskforce. And it does all of that without forcing you to leave your inbox.

Digital natives and novices alike can use this interface with ease: Most actions are carried out simply by clicking on a Taskforce button inside your mailbox. Install the add-on, fire up your Gmail account and watch your productivity soar.

Things to Do
Productivity tools with oodles of features work well for advanced taskmasters. But the rest of us may be better served by simple add-ons that actually encourage us to get things done.

Procrastinators, look no further than Things to Do. The add-on makes your duties inescapable by turning Chrome’s New Tab page into a customizable to-do list. Each bullet point on your list can be dragged to a new position for easy prioritizing. Editing and deleting items is as simple as clicking on them, and keyboard shortcuts provide quick navigation through all the tasks you swear you’ll get done today.

AddThis
AddThis is your one-stop shop for all things sharing. Click the in-browser AddThis button and you’ll be able to broadcast content to over 300 different Web services. That simple browser button lets you tweet, share or email links without the hassle of switching between pages.

It’s ideal for thought leaders, social media marketers or anyone else with a generous digital spirit. AddThis also features translation functions for foreign-language content and can quickly be customized to share on lesser-known sites like Fashionista, Historious and Link Ninja.

FastestChrome
FastestChrome, a Chrome version of the popular FastestFox Firefox extension, is like steroids for your browser. Although it doesn’t actually load pages faster, the add-on’s numerous features make browsing faster overall. For instance, it automatically loads the next page of a website for minimal interruption while reading, and when you highlight a word or phrase on the page, its definition appears in a pop-up.

Social media mavens will love the ability to highlight a link and check out its popularity on Facebook and Twitter, while shopaholics will appreciate the real-time price comparisons pulled from shopping search engines that are displayed anytime a product appears in Google search results. All this and more adds up to a Chrome enhancement that makes Web browsing a breeze.

SpeakIt!
Multitaskers, meet your new best friend. Install SpeakIt!, highlight on-screen text on a non-encrypted Web page and click the SpeakIt! toolbar button to hear the text read aloud to you while you get work done. It’s the perfect way to listen to the latest celebrity updates from TMZ while, you know, doing important things. It’s also a great add-on for eye-strained Web users in need of relief.

Be warned, however — there’s no easy way to stop SpeakIt! once it starts reading aloud, so be ready with your keyboard’s Mute button.

This open-source tool supports every language that Google does, meaning polyglots and foreign language users have a chance to get in on the text-to-speech action. Wunderbar!

Up
Good things come in small packages. With one click, the Up add-on sends users up one level in the currently loaded URL. It’ll also display the path list back to the original website, making navigation among multiple URL levels quick and easy.

For researchers tracking down the home source of a citation or those who need to tap the root of a website quickly, Up is a must-have — proving that some of the best productivity tools are the simplest.

SOURCE: PCWORLD.COM

You don’t need an electrical engineering degree to properly install a cooler on your CPU. As is the case when installing many PC components, however, the procedure involves some subtleties that can have a measurable impact on the computer’s performance.

Simply latching on a CPU cooler without doing additional prep work may result in a seemingly perfect, working system. However, if you take some extra time to thoroughly clean the CPU’s integrated heat spreader and heat sink, prime their surfaces, and properly install a high-quality thermal interface material, your CPU’s temperatures will be lower – sometimes much lower. And lower CPU temperatures often result in a quieter system that’s also more stable and overclockable, if that’s your thing. A cooler chip is likely to hold up longer under sustained use, too.

With all of the potential benefits to a properly installed CPU cooler, we thought it would be a good idea to take you through the installation process, step by step, with both AMD- and Intel-based systems. Keep in mind that while we focus on desktop processors here, the steps outlined in this article generally apply to all types of processors, and to other chips that require heat sinks to aid in cooling.

Step 1: Ensure That the CPU Is Fully Inserted Into Its Socket
Unless something is obstructing the processor and preventing it from being perfectly seated in its socket, the chip should sit flat and level. To be certain it’s installed correctly, lift the socket retention lever and apply a bit of downward pressure on the CPU. Then, while applying the pressure, lower the lever to lock the CPU into place. Finally, perform a final visual inspection to confirm that the CPU is fully seated and flat against the socket.

Step 2: Clean the CPU and Heat-Sink Surfaces
For the base of the cooler’s heat sink to make optimal contact with the CPU’s integrated heat spreader, both surfaces must be clean and free from contaminants or particles. Use a lint-free cloth and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (or an alcohol-based cleaner safe for use on electronics, which won’t leave behind any residue), to clean the base of the heat sink and the top of the CPU’s integrated heat spreader. It’s important to remove adhesive or any other potential contaminants that may prevent the surfaces from mating properly.

Step 3: Prime the CPU and Heat-Sink Surfaces With Thermal Paste
Some people argue that this step is unnecessary, but we’ve been doing it for years with great success. The reason for using a thermal interface material, or TIM, between the heat sink and CPU is to minimize or eliminate any potential air gaps. The TIM is a better conductor of heat than air is, and it acts as a medium to facilitate the migration of heat from the CPU to the heat sink. Priming the surfaces with a small amount of thermal paste (our TIM of choice) will fill in the microscopic imperfections in the metal that may not be filled by the final application of thermal interface material as the heat sink compresses it. Priming the surfaces also lubricates them somewhat, and helps to ensure that the final application of TIM spreads more easily and more evenly when compressed.

To prime the CPU’s integrated heat spreader and the heat sink’s base, apply a very small amount of thermal paste to each and rub it into their surfaces with a circular motion, as if you were waxing a car. The goal is to work the paste into the imperfections in the surface, until you’re left with what looks like a slight haze in the metal.

Step 4: Apply the Thermal Interface Material
With the CPU’s integrated heat spreader and the heat sink’s base clean and primed, it’s time to apply some thermal interface material, preferably a high-quality ceramic or silver-based thermal paste. On the center of the CPU’s integrated heat spreader, apply a small amount of thermal paste–just enough to cover the metal surface with a paper-thin layer of paste when spread out. A drop barely larger than a BB but smaller than a pea will do. You do not want gobs of extra paste to ooze from the sides when you mount the heat sink. The goal is to use the least amount of thermal paste possible to cover the surface of the integrated heat spreader, eliminate any air gaps, and allow maximum thermal transfer between the integrated heat spreader and the heat sink. Using too much thermal paste can hinder performance, so be judicious in its application.

Step 5: Mount the CPU Cooler
Most air coolers use a simple clip/latching mechanism to secure the heat-sink assemblies to the socket. The installation process involves lowering the heat sink in place, latching two clips to the mounting bracket around the CPU socket, and firmly securing the heat sink with whatever locking mechanism is installed on the cooler, typically a lever with a cam or screws.

The cooler we used, a model from Thermaltake, had a simple lever with a cam. To install it, we lowered it into position, being careful to hold it level and parallel to the CPU’s surface to ensure that the thermal paste spread evenly in all directions. Then, we positioned the metal clips over the hooks on the mounting bracket, and while applying a bit of downward pressure on the heat sink, we moved the lever into the locked position. The cam on the lever engages with a metal place on the mounting bracket, and applies constant downward pressure on the heat sink so that it makes good contact with the CPU surface.

Finally, plug the cooling fan’s connector into the CPU fan header on the motherboard, and you’re done.

SOURCE: PCWORLD.COM

That’s right: When your aged mother phones up to complain about her slow, broken, and malware-infested computer, instead of schlepping over there with a Windows install disk, you can just tell her to click “Refresh.” Refreshing keeps network settings, BitLocker settings, drive letter assignments, and personalizations (lock screen image, desktop wallpaper, etc.) Only Metro apps are preserved, however; Desktop apps, due to their third-party installers and other caveats are not easy to save — plus, due to the restrictive permissions placed on Metro apps, it’s probably a Desktop app that is causing a computer to misbehave in the first place. File associations, Windows Firewall settings, and Display settings are not preserved during a Refresh.

Reset is obviously very useful if you want to sell an old computer — or if you just want to perform the standard Six Month Windows Dekluge. Both Reset and Refresh are surprisingly quick, too: Reset takes six minutes, and Refresh takes eight minutes (compared to a baseline of 25 minutes using a system image backup tool). When Resetting, you have the option of performing a “thorough” wipe of your documents and settings, which takes a little longer to perform — 24 minutes, according to Microsoft (in reality it will take longer) — but it will prevent the next owner of your computer from discovering the details of your sordid affairs. These very quick speeds are achieved by using the same data migration tech as the Windows 8 upgrade engine, incidentally.

In true Microsoft, One OS To Rule Them All style, though, the Redmondites have also added a hard disk imaging/ghosting tool to Windows 8, ala Norton Ghost or Acronis True image. By using a tool called recimg.exe, you can define what image will be used by Refresh. In other words, you can install all of your normal Desktop apps and games — Photoshop, Steam, and so on — configure all of your tweaks and personalizations, run recimg.exe… and then when you Refresh, your computer will be cleaned up and also ready to go immediately. Neat.

At this juncture we have to point out that both Reset and Refresh are very tablety features, though given Windows’ innate malware magnetism, the same features will be very welcome on the desktop as well. Android, iOS, and Windows Phone 7 all support a Reset function — and through iCloud, Google’s cloud services, and Windows Live, resetting a phone is almost painless. Windows 8, if it wants to succeed on tablets, must have the same functionality as iOS and Android and then some.

SOURCE: EXTREMETECH.COM

1. Make New Text Lines in a Cell
Would you like to create multiple lines of text within a cell? There’s a keystroke for that. What if you want to reuse a chart’s formatting on another chart, or print multiple worksheets on a single sheet of paper? Those aren’t the only timesaving tools at your fingertips. Here’s how to find and use them to work smarter in Excel.

As you’ve probably already discovered, when you’re typing text into a cell and you want to start a new line of text, the Enter key doesn’t produce the desired result. Pressing Enter merely places the text in the current cell and then selects the next cell. Instead, to start a new line in Microsoft Excel, as you’re typing text, press Alt-Enter. On the Mac, the key combination is Control-Option-Return.

2. Quickly Add Values in Cells
Need a quick tally of values in selected cells? Read it in the Status Bar. What do you do when you need a quick calculation, such as adding the values of two cells? Rather than typing a formula to do it, click once on the first cell to select it and then Ctrl-click the second cell. By default, the Status Bar which runs along the foot of the Excel window will show the result of adding the values in the selected cells (Sum).

You can also view other calculations in the Status Bar by right-clicking the Status Bar and choosing from the calculations listed there; aside from Sum, you’ll find Average, Count, Numerical Count (the quantity of cells selected that contain numerical values), Minimum, and Maximum.

3. Create a Reusable Chart Template
Once you create a chart template, you can use it to format any future chart quickly.Creating a series of charts for a project, such as an annual report, usually means that you need to format all of the charts similarly. Create a chart template for the design, and you can use it to create and format new charts in a flash.

First create one chart and format it as you want all of the charts to look in the future. To save the chart formatting and appearance (but not the data) as a template, choose Chart Tools, go to the Design tab, select Save as Template, and then type a name for your template. The entry in the Save As Type box should read ‘Chart Template Files(*.crtx)’; if it doesn’t, select that option from the drop-down list. Click Save.

To use this template to format a new chart, begin by selecting the data to chart. From the Ribbon toolbar, choose Insert, Other Charts, and then All Charts Types. Now click the Templates option. From the My Templates group, select the template you saved, and click OK. Your new chart will have the same formatting as the chart template, saving you from having to do the work again yourself.

4. Format and Chart Far-Flung Data
The first step in charting and formatting sets of data that are far from one another is to select the data you need.Here’s another quick timesaver: When you want to format a series of cells that don’t appear side by side, start by selecting the first block of cells and then hold the Ctrl key as you select the second and subsequent blocks of cells. You can then apply a format, such as a font change or fill color, to all the selected cells.

You can use the same technique to chart cells that don’t appear side by side, as well. For example, if you need to create a chart from a table of data using the headings in the first column and the data from the fourth column, first select the headings in the first column. Then hold Ctrl as you select the matching data in the cells in the fourth column. Afterward, create a chart, just as you would any regular chart.

5. Keep an Eye on Data With a Watch Window
Using a Watch Window, you can view the values in cells not visible on your current screen.When you’re editing a very large worksheet, often you need to view how your changes in one area affect totals and other calculations in cells that currently sit off-screen, either farther down the page or on another worksheet tab. Instead of repeatedly moving back and forth from your working data area to the cells that show the results you’re interested in, use a Watch Window to display the values of the cells in the other part of the worksheet as you tinker.

To set up a Watch Window, click the left mouse button within one cell that you want to watch. From the Ribbon toolbar, choose Formulas, Watch Window. When the Watch Window dialog box appears, click Add Watch. Because you’ve already selected the cell, you simply need to confirm that the reference to it in the dialog box is correct, and then click Add.

Now return to the area of your worksheet that you’re editing. As you do so, you’ll see that the Watch Window floats atop the worksheet, allowing you to work on your data. While you edit, the Watch Window shows the other cells, reflecting the changes you’re making. You can move and resize the Watch Window as you wish, and use the Add Watch button to view additional cells in the Watch Window–even cells on another sheet–so that you can track the results in multiple cells as you work.

6. Make Formulas Easier to Understand
Using named ranges makes writing and troubleshooting formulas easier in Excel worksheets.Sometimes formulas are not as clear as they could be. A formula that looks like ‘=C2*C5′, for instance, is much harder to understand at a glance than one that reads, say, ‘=TaxRate*C5′. You can create formulas that use names (like ‘TaxRate’) instead of cell references (like ‘C2′) if you give common names to the cell or cells containing data you use repeatedly in calculations.

To name a range, click the cell or select the range of cells to name. From the Ribbon toolbar, choose Formulas, Define Name, and then type a name in the Name box. The name should start with a character, not a number, and although you can’t use spaces, you can use an underscore character if you wish. Click OK.

For example, if you were to name a cell ‘TaxRate’, later on you could use that name in a calculation, such as in the formula ‘=TaxRate*C5′, which multiplies the value in cell C5 by the value of the cell you’ve named ‘TaxRate’.

You can easily access named cells or ranges later.When you have named cells on a worksheet, you can find any of those cells or ranges by clicking in the Name box, which appears at the far left of the Formula Bar under the Ribbon toolbar. Click the drop-down arrow in the Name box to view a list of all named ranges, and click one to go immediately to that area on the worksheet.

7. Format Large Values as Rounded Thousands and Millions
Use a custom format to show large numbers as rounded, simplified values.Large numbers, such as thousands and millions, are often easier to work with as a rounded number than the exact value. You can set the cells containing large values to the nearest number of thousands using a custom Excel format.

First select the cell or range to round off. Next, right-click the selection and choose Format Cells, Number. From the Category list in the Format Cells dialog box, select Custom. In the Type box, type ###, “k” and click OK. This format will round up the number to a whole number of thousands and display it with the letter k after it. For example, the number 21,678.22 will display as ’22k’. Likewise, to format a number in the millions, create a custom formula that reads ###,,”m”.

In addition to using this number format in your worksheets, you can apply it when formatting the axes of your charts. To format a chart axis this way, right-click the axis and choose Format Axis. Then choose the Number group and set up your custom format by typing it in the Format Code box.

This format controls only how the numbers appear on your worksheet or chart axis, and does not affect the cell’s value. Therefore, Excel will use the actual value in a cell when the cell is referred to in a calculation.

8. Print Multiple Sheets on One Page
One thing that’s impossible to do in Excel using any built-in command or option is to print data from multiple sheets in a workbook onto a single sheet of paper. Instead, Excel always starts a new sheet of paper for each sheet in the workbook.

You can assemble snapshots of data from multiple worksheets into one worksheet for printing on a single sheet of paper.You have a workaround, however, that involves using the Camera tool. To start, you need to add the Camera icon to a toolbar; the easiest one to use is the Quick Access Toolbar. Click the down-pointing arrow to the right of the QAT, and choose More Commands. From the drop-down list in the right panel of the Excel Options dialog box, choose Commands Not in the Ribbon. In the panel below, select the Camera icon and click Add to put it in the QAT. Click Close.

Then, select the first range to print, and take a snapshot of it by clicking the Camera icon. Move to a new worksheet, and click in the cell where the top-left corner of the snapshot should appear. Immediately, once you click there, the snapshot image will appear.

Now go to the second area that you want to print, select it, take a snapshot of it, and repeat the process of adding that snapshot to the same sheet as before. Continue to assemble all the data you need to print. Because the snapshots are all located on a single worksheet, you can now print them on one sheet of paper. Note, too, that the snapshots are linked to the original data, so if you make changes to the original data, the data in the snapshots will update automatically.

9. Borrow Table Formats for Your Excel Data
You can remove some table formatting while preserving the table itself.Using the ‘Format as Table’ command on the Home tab of the Ribbon toolbar applies a neat format to a list of data in Excel. Unfortunately, it also adds filters to your column headings and changes the behavior of columns and rows adjacent to the list. If you want the convenience and simplicity of applying table formats with a single click, but don’t want the other features applied at the same time, you can easily remove the extras.

To see this at work, select your list, including the heading row. Apply a table format to it by selecting the Format as Table option on the Home tab of the Ribbon. Click a table style to apply it to your list. When the Format As Table dialog box appears, select the My table has headers checkbox, then click OK–your data will be neatly formatted.

To remove the other features that Excel adds automatically to your list, keep the list selected. Choose Table Tools and then the Design tab, and select the Convert to Range option. When Excel asks, ‘Do you want to convert the table to a normal range?’ click Yes. This action removes the filters from the column headings, and removes other table-specific behavior, but leaves the formatting in place.

10. Create a Custom Data-Entry List
Use a Data Validation List to make selecting values to enter data into cells easy.It’s always quicker and more accurate to select an entry from a prepared list than to type the item yourself. So when you have a worksheet requiring common entries that could exist in a list, set them up that way.

To create such a list, in an empty sheet in the workbook type the list of items to choose from, in one column. Return to the sheet where you will use these items, and select the range into which they will be entered. Choose Data, Data Validation, Data Validation, and then click the Settings tab. In the Allow drop-down menu, select List. Click in the Source area, navigate to the sheet that contains the data, and select the cells containing the items you just typed. Click OK to close the dialog box.

Now, when you select one of the cells to which you just added the Data Validation option, you’ll see a drop-down arrow appear. From the list that appears when you click the arrow, you can select the item to enter into that cell.

SOURCE: PCWORLD.COM

Portable Drive

If there’s already a computer and projector where you’re delivering the presentation and you just need to move your files there, use your phone as a portable disk. Before you leave your desk, transfer the file from your PC to your phone for easy access later. Or, if you’re toting a Windows Phone 7 handset, you can just access your PowerPoint file on the phone via SkyDrive. Your phone can also be a lifesaver when you forget a file offsite, as long as you store your presentation in an app like Dropbox or Box. Just remember to pack an extra USB cable to connect your phone to a computer.

Remote Control

Another way your phone comes in handy, if your presentation site already has a computer and projector, is to act as a remote control. Using an iOS or Android app installed on the phone that talks to a server program on the presentation computer, you can control the presentation through gestures on your phone. Examples of this phone and PC software combination include iOS apps like i-Clickr PowerPoint Remote, or Android apps, like Bluetooth Remote PC, which work via Bluetooth, or “Remote for PowerPoint” that can also use Wi-Fi.

HDMI/MHL Out

There may be times when you want to use your phone as the presentation device itself when there’s no computer available. In this case, some phones offer video output options so you can display your slideshow on a monitor or TV. Newer iPhones can output video with a special 30-pin-to-video cable, and Android phones such as the HTC Evo 3D even include a mini-HDMI or MHL output. It’s important to note that not all phones can output everything shown on the screen to a display or projector, and some are limited to specific media types like video, so be sure to test your setup early before you hit the road.

Presentation Software

If you can use your phone as the presentation device, you’ll need presentation software. Microsoft’s Windows Phone 7 includes a PowerPoint viewer, but apps like Documents to Go or Quickoffice Pro also allow both Android or iOS to display a PowerPoint presentation stored on the phone. To avoid potential issues that apps might have with fonts, version incompatibility, and limited features, consider using a remote desktop app to display the presentation running on your office PC. An app like LogMeIn for iOS or TeamViewer for Android will access your office desktop, so you can run your presentation remotely in native PowerPoint. Just be sure to have a reliable network connection.

Future Capabilities

Sharp’s SH-05C projector phone debuted in Japan.Recently, a self-described hacker developed a system to combine a PC, a projector, and a Microsoft Kinect camera to project his phone’s display onto a wall. He could control the phone by interacting with the image on the wall. The extra equipment doesn’t make this solution practical on a business trip, but with companies like Texas Instruments developing pico projectors for smartphones, and the LG eXpo already having a snap-on pico projector option, it’s not hard to imagine a phone integrating these capabilities in the not-so-distant future.

SOURCE: PCWORLD.COM